Melbourne-born chef, caterer, food stylist and writer Jennifer McLagan is the author of the widely acclaimed and awarded books Bones (2005), Fat (2008), Odd Bits (2011) and Bitter (2014).
She began her professional life in the kitchens of Melbourne's Southern Cross Hotel before heading to London to work at Prue Leith's highly regarded restaurant and then at Winfield House, home of the US ambassador to the Court of St James. She is based in Toronto and with Canadian husband Haralds Gaikis spends four months of the year in Paris. See jennifermclagan.com
WHAT'S THE BEST TABLE IN TORONTO?
It's a hard choice as many of Toronto's chefs are my friends. I like Scott Vivian's restaurant Beast, a friendly, casual place that highlights local Ontario meat, fish and produce. Like me, Scott loves offal so you'll often find sweetbreads, foie gras and heart on the menu. Serious carnivores can order a whole animal dinner. I like the slightly smaller portions as I can eat more and still have room for Rachelle's fabulous desserts. See thebeastrestaurant.com
THE LOCAL FOOD DISCOVERY OF THE PAST YEAR?
Bar Raval is a Spanish-style tapas bar open from 8am until 2am. You can drop in early for breakfast and linger until lunch. The afternoon can be spent sipping vermouth or sherry before the place becomes a lively hub for crowds munching on pintxos and tapas and enjoying cocktails late into the night. Make sure you try the octopus and the blood sausage. The room itself is worth the visit for its Gaudi-esque mahogany decor. See thisisbarraval.com
WHAT IS TORONTO'S BEST-KEPT FOOD SECRET?
I'm not usually a fan of supermarkets, but Fiesta Farms is different. This independent, family-run business has the regular goods you expect to find, but also a good selection of organic fruits, vegetables and dairy. There are unusual products such as Seville and blood oranges, cardoons, a range of chicories and white asparagus in season. They support local, sustainable food and carry many exotic goods that you usually only find at specialty stores. See fiestafarms.ca
PLACE TO GO ON A DAY OFF?
I love to wander through the vibrant Kensington Market, which spreads over several blocks adjacent to downtown. There are all sorts of food shops, restaurants, bakeries, coffee shops and bars. One of my favourite stops is the Good Egg cookbook store. Its owner, Mika Bareket, carefully curates her books and magazines so I always find something new and interesting. She also has a selection of cookware and lots of fun food-related gifts. See goodegg.ca
FAVOURITE INDULGENCE IN TORONTO?
I don't often go out for a drink; my husband makes great cocktails at home. However, when the evenings are long and warm we go to Reposado in the lively Ossington area west of downtown. Here you can sit at the bar, or out on the patio, and enjoy the best margaritas in town. They have Toronto's most extensive tequila collection, so as you sip on aged tequila you can listen to live jazz. See reposadobar.com
PLACE TO GO FOR A BIG NIGHT OUT?
Toronto is far from the ocean so while the oysters are good, excellent fish restaurants were rare. Now there is the brilliant Buca Yorkville. On the menu is crudo di mare. Try my favourite: the whole sea bass sliced at the table. There are east coast scallops, west coast prawns, Alaskan crab and large, delicious sea urchin, all prepared with an Italian savoir-faire by chef Rob Gentile. The aperitivi and wine list is also excellent. See buca.ca/yorkville
BEST TIME TO VISIT, AND WHY, FOODWISE IN TORONTO?
September to early October is the best time to visit. The weather is still warm enough for you to enjoy a drink on an outdoor patio, although the nights can be cool. The trees are beginning to change colour, which is spectacular and well worth taking a trip out of town to see. The many farmers' markets are overflowing with local produce, and you'll be able to experience the fun of a fall fair.
WHAT SHOULD A VISITOR AVOID, FOOD-WISE, IN TORONTO?
Avoid the peameal bacon sandwich at the St Lawrence market. Despite its worldwide press, it's nothing special and rather dry. Peameal, or Canadian bacon, is cured, lean, pork loin originally rolled in crushed yellow peas, but now it's cornmeal.
However, do visit the market, which dates from 1803 and is in the historic downtown district. The best day is Saturday when you'll want to catch the farmers' market too – just skip the sandwich. See stlawrencemarket.com
Jennifer McLagan returns home to Melbourne to celebrate our least-understood flavour – bitter. In collaboration with chef Nicky Riemer, McLagan will host an International Chef Dinner as part of Melbourne Food and Wine Festival (March 4-13) presented by Bank of Melbourne, Monday, March 7, at Union Dining. Buy tickets at MFWF.com.au
