I pine for the food of my childhood. A homely meal with a modern twist can make you feel so cared for.
CHICKEN CHASSEUR
I'm not sure this is authentic, but it's pretty close in spirit to what we called "chasseur" at home, bar the dried porcini, of course. Tinned mushrooms were more the style in 1978!
SERVES 4
25g dried porcini mushrooms
2 tbsp olive oil, for frying
4 chicken legs, thighs and drumsticks separated
8 golden shallots, peeled and halved
4 garlic cloves, sliced
2 bay leaves
½ cup white wine
1¼ cups chicken stock
3 tbsp crème fraîche
squeeze lemon juice
2 tbsp chopped tarragon
handful flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
rice or roasted potatoes, to serve
Soak the mushrooms in ½ cup freshly boiled water for 15 minutes, then remove from the water and roughly chop. Save the soaking liquid.
Heat the oil in a large shallow casserole dish over a medium-high heat. Season the chicken pieces with salt and freshly ground black pepper and brown pieces all over for 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Add the golden shallots and cook for a couple of minutes, turning occasionally, until they start taking on some colour. Add the garlic and chopped porcini, cook for 2 minutes, then add the bay leaves and white wine.
Simmer for 2 minutes then pour in the chicken stock and the water the porcini soaked in. Bring to the boil, partially cover, and simmer gently for 45 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through. Stir in crème fraîche, lemon juice and tarragon and top with parsley. Serve with rice or roasted potatoes.
RICE WITH PEAS AND PANCETTA
Most of us grew up eating stodgy rice with dark-coloured peas and other unidentified matter. That was before the foodie revolution, when an endlessly stirred risotto was the thing to aspire to. Neither is my idea of fun. Fast forward to 2014 and I want creamy rice, fresh flavours, minimal stirring and green veg that stays green.
SERVES 4
30g butter
1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to drizzle
1 leek, thinly sliced
100g unsmoked pancetta, cubed
1½ cups Arborio rice
4 cups chicken stock
100g frozen peas, defrosted
handful of mint leaves, torn
handful of basil leaves, torn
juice of ½ lemon
3 tbsp parmesan, freshly grated
Heat the butter and olive oil in a heavy-based pan over a medium heat. Add the leek and pancetta and cook for 7-8 minutes, until the leeks are soft and pancetta golden.
Stir in the rice then pour in half the stock and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the peas, pour in the remaining stock and cook for another 8-10 minutes, or until the rice is tender.
Fold through the herbs, lemon juice and parmesan. Serve with a generous drizzle of olive oil.
Food preparation by Marina Filippelli and Rosie Reynolds. Props merchandising by Rachel Jukes.
